DEHLI

DELHI:

A CITY OF CONTRASTS

by Sophie Latham.

In light of recent unrest over the Delhi rape case, India has been all over the news. The rape and murder of a female student sparked worldwide protests: women’s rights groups are taking up arms and calling for the death penalty for rapists. India considers itself the birthplace of democracy, but its coalition government renders decision-making difficult.

India’s historical importance in relation to the British Empire is the reason why PAL and TAL (Première and Terminale A Level) students visited Delhi for a short week during the February holidays. We focused on how the Islamic kingdom of the Mughals gave way to the British Raj and modern India.

Delhi is a city of contrasts. Upon arriving, the musty, dusty smell hits you and you begin to notice all the differences between this city and yours. It is a culture shock, but visiting such a place lends you a little more humility, and gives you a different perspective. I find that it is the details that “make” Delhi. The children, no older than 6, selling balloons and flowers at red lights, or performing cartwheels and backflips in hope of a few rupees. The noise. The colours. The clothes. The buildings. The history. The people. Together, they make Delhi the vibrant, overcrowded and chaotic, yet beautiful city it is today.

The traffic was something I had never seen. Bustling, cacophonous and grinding. The road is the pavement, and you must meander through the rickshaws, carts, cattle, motorbikes and cars to get past. The number of people that can fit on these streets is unimaginable, and so are the noise levels. The dense crowds make you feel like you're constantly in something's way. One of the busiest streets is Chandni Chowk, which we braved on our third day. Not only were there people, animals and vehicles everywhere, but added to that were stalls selling spices or fruit, and beggars in the middle of the road. It was daunting but exciting, and one of the many highlights of the trip.

The poverty in Delhi is striking and often heartbreaking. It is difficult to ignore toddlers in rags begging for a few rupees and holding onto your arm, and it is no easier to walk past mothers holding infants who already have the eyes of an adult. The streets are also full of stray dogs, too exhausted and starved to stand. People with physical deformities beg near temples and mosques. The dirt and debris equal those in shanty towns- there are no bins; the streets are littered and people sift through the rubbish to find food or anything of value. In many instances, the toilets were no more than holes in the ground. The city is known as the capital of crime and corruption, in equal measures.

Amidst all the poverty and pollution it is difficult to imagine Delhi’s beauty, but if you look beyond the tarpaulin and corrugated iron, past the superficial aspects, you see traces of beautiful architecture, intricate carvings and the remains of Delhi’s colourful past. For example, from the steps of the Akshardham temple, you can notice how the complex carved walls in the foreground, surrounding the gardens, contrast with the crowded motorway and the derelict housing behind. There is a juxtaposition of old and contemporary Delhi everywhere. You may be standing in a temple with lavish ceilings, patterned tiles and gold statues and just a few metres away from you, behind the walls, are barefoot children in rags, stray dogs fighting over scraps of litter, and men asleep on the roadside.

It’s said that the only way to explore Delhi is to allow yourself to be engulfed. Although it is such an impressive city, it was also oppressive in some respects. Being treated like a celebrity and asked to pose for pictures was amusing at first, but it became unsettling when crowds of locals circled our group with cameras and mobile phones. Even though we were dressed conservatively, we were still considered “different” and treated like a spectacle. These attitudes weren’t malicious, and in most cases the tension could be dissipated by a head wobble, a cultural gesture which generally means ‘ok’, ‘yes’ or ‘I understand’ but can be used in any context, and is sometimes interpreted as ‘I don’t mean any harm’.

It seemed like the people had a completely different outlook on life. 

To our standards, most had no reason to hope – no money, no food, and no future – yet they didn't give up. We befriended a group of people living in an illegal slum by the side of a motorway, and had the opportunity of riding their elephant. Although the children laughed and chased each other, there was something very old about their eyes, some sort of wisdom, and a sense that they had grown up too soon. Most were left to fend for themselves, and to look after even younger children. We were encouraged to give out pens and small toys rather than money, and I was truly moved by one little boy, Debola, who immediately drew a bracelet in biro on his wrist, and handed it to me so that I could draw a smiley face. A man standing by the elephant was holding a radio and began to play Indian music; a circle formed and some of the students danced with children from the slum. These were really magical moments.

As a group, we unanimously agreed that our visit to Delhi was one of the most enriching and incredible trips we’d ever been on – it is a wonderful city, and although this was my first time there, it definitely won’t be my last.

Very special thanks from PAL and TAL students to Dr Carr for organising this amazing trip.

Sophie LATHAM.